US Highpoint #38!
I took advantage of a work trip to Mayo Clinic in Rochester MN to fly from MSP up to Duluth and then drive to the Eagle Mountain trailhead in January. Fortunately, the road to the trailhead is always plowed in the winter as there are a bunch of residents just outside of Grand Marais that live in the neighborhood.
Grand Marais, Minnesota
My home for the night is about two hours north of Duluth along the “north shore” of Lake Superior, a definite BFL*.
Grand Marais, Minnesota is a town clearly supported by the tourist industry year-round. I headed to Sven and Ole’s, the local pizza joint for dinner and lunch the next day. The pizza was *fantastic.* A note on the menu limits changes to their speciality pizzas to two and “If you want more changes please go to make your own pizza” (hahaha). I told the owner about Shanghied in Astoria and other PNW Scandinavian follies.
The sunset on the lake that night was phenomenal.
The next morning I got coffee and a breakfast sando at the Java Moose Espresso Cafe, which boasts an excellent product as well as a sweet vintage collection of Coleman Thermos(es), all individually sourced by the owner. I talked to the owner for a few minutes and she has the same mentality as me of always trying to source everything as locally as possible and avoids Amazon unless absolutely necessary.
Eagle Mountain
Originally I had considered skiing Eagle, both with backcountry (AT) and with cross-country gear, but I’m glad I didn’t. Although XC would’ve been tolerable, the steep hill near the summit would have required doffing the skis, and the approach was much to flat to warrant AT gear. Lucky for me I packed two options for footwear, my leather hiking boots and my Kamiks (Like Sorrels).
With a foot of snow on the ground I was apprehensive about the approach, and quite relieved to see someone had recently broken trail- Eagle Mountain is a popular hike, year-round. I considered leather, gaiters, and micro-spikes, but due to the sunny conditions and lack of ice in the first few yards, thankfully opted for the Kamiks.
Off I went, enjoying the complete silence of the North Woods and the striking beauty provided by the contrast between the snow, blue skies, and hardwood forest. After what I estimated to be about 45 minutes, I checked my watch, and to my surprise I had only walked for ELEVEN MINUTES!! Holy crap, talk about “get-there-itis!” I couldn’t get out of my head so I donned headphones and listened to music and podcasts, and soon the urgency left me so much that when I arrived at Whale Lake in less than an hour, I was confused and in disbelief- I had given myself four hours to reach the summit, now only minutes away!
At first I considered breaking trail around the lake, but after 30 feet of post holing, I retreated. After all, it has been sub-freezing for weeks, so the ice should be solid, right? Right?!?!?
With tentative steps, I ventured out onto the frozen lake, testing each step with my poles for sounds of cracking. Of course, this is the Great White North and you could probably land a 747 on the lake at the moment!
Quickly on the other side, I began the gradual climb up the only real hill on the hike, which leads directly to the summit. To the south, vistas are soon encountered, looking out over the BWCA Wilderness.
The woods were absolutely gorgeous and not another person, plane, or sound to be had. The packed powder trail soon ended, there was no more “up” to be had, and I knew I was on top!
I probed around with my poles to find the summit plaque, buried under a foot of fresh pow and easily located with a “thwack” sound. I excavated the summit markers and took numerous obligatory selfies including with my homemade sign proclaiming my 38th US State Highpoint!
Despite all of the anxiety and planning involved with any mid-winter summit, everything fell into place perfectly. I spent an hour eating a Sven and Ole’s pizza lunch, taking photos, and surveying the southern escarpment.
Soon I hoofed it back to the trailhead, only 90 minutes away. Despite being prepared for a 5-8 hour journey, the hike itself was only 3 hours round trip. Back at the lake, I stomped out a large heart and “D+K” to send home to Katt, large enough that I hoped it would be seen by a local pilot before the next snow storm.
An incredibly satisfying high point in one of the friendliest and accommodating states I have ever visited.
Stats:
- US Highpoint #38
- 6.5 miles round-trip, 3.25 hours
- 17 degrees F
- 6th US Highpoint on a work trip, along with FL, NH, RI, TX, WI
Here’s some information provided by the Visit Cook County Visitor Information Center:
Afterwards I got a celebratory beer and dinner at Voyageur Brewing Company in Grand Marais, which is highly recommended. I got their corned beef eggrolls, a new take on an old favorite.
That night I stayed near Lutsen Mountain, the states’ largest lift-served downhill ski area. That story, along with a description of my trip on the North Shore are coming soon here.
*Big Fucking Lake
Sweetest love <3